It was tempting to poke fun at Marmalade. Opened by a food-obsessed tax attorney, the restaurant would attempt to make a go of it in chain-dominated Beachwood. Further bolstering odds-makers' argument for disaster, this tax attorney-cum-restaurateur already had one failed concept under his belt: Sinergy. The behind-the-scenes snickering reached a crescendo when said attorney was compelled by threat of litigation to change the name of his seven-week-old restaurant. Thus Marmalade begat Mélange.

But here's the thing: This tax attorney appears to have pulled it off.

Andy Zelenkofske spent a boatload of green transforming the former American Café at La Place Fashion Centre into an eminently attractive, comfortable space. Where Sinergy was cold, sterile and harshly lit, Mélange offers a soothing escape from the surrounding retail jungle that threatens to derail one's spirit. Done up in coffee and cream, with judicious bursts of tangerine, the restaurant would not be out of place in the lobby of a boutique Miami hotel. Guests are coddled in seats that range from cushy button-tufted leather banquettes to sumptuous suede armchairs.

The 6,000-square-foot space is divided into two main rooms, a carpeted dining room with sweeping views of Cedar Road and the lounge, a larger, dimmer space filled with booths, tables and banquettes. A lengthy wood and glass bar is illuminated from within, casting a peaceful orange glow throughout the room.

Considering the financial investment behind the renovations, coupled with pricy finishes and a rent that can't be much of a bargain, one might expect lofty tariffs on food, booze, wine and air. But the opposite is true. While food of this caliber could easily and inoffensively fetch more, prices for entrees fall largely in the $17-$21 range. Lunch is less than half that. Mélange's wine list, impressive in its breadth and depth, is studded with moderately marked-up bottles.

Executive chef Joe Bemer, also formerly of Sinergy, has found a much better fit for his contemporary American cuisine than a high-fashion nightclub. And though laughably long at conception, Bemer's menu wisely has been edited down to a manageable size. Most notably, the dozen or so pizzas have been scratched altogether.

Dinners begin with a delicious bread basket, a variety of sliced loaves and flatbreads, presented in a paper cone and served with honey butter, tapenade and vinegar-laced olive oil.

Appetizers include a trio of gargantuan scallops ($11), briefly seared and paired with a mound of cheesy orzo pasta. This dish could just as easily pass for an entrée, but that didn't stop our foursome from devouring it like a snack. Thick rings of fried calamari ($10) are tossed in an Asian glaze that starts sweet and finishes spicy.

A build-your-own fish taco appetizer ($10.50), while creative and well-executed, never really comes together. Arranged on a large platter are thin slices of seared tuna loin, crisp fried wonton shells, shredded Manchego cheese, chopped onion, tomato and guacamole. The assembled tacos cry out for a sauce or salsa to lubricate the otherwise dry ingredients.

Every entrée on the dinner menu is worthy of serious consideration, but it's the oft-overlooked sides that prove the surprise hits. A three-fingers-thick double-cut pork chop ($18.50) is every bit a meaty winner, but it is the decadent corn soufflé that vanishes first. The mustard-flavored spaetzle that accompanies a diminutive and delectable New Zealand rack of lamb ($24) is a welcome departure from a mound of mashers. It's difficult to match the richness of Mélange's pistachio-crusted grouper ($20), but the gooey orzo-and-cheese side does exactly that.

The only dish that leaves us underwhelmed is the lobster mac and cheese ($17.50), a deep bowl of twisty noodles in a thin cheese sauce. Lobster meat is in short supply and the advertised buttered breadcrumbs fail to make an appearance altogether.

Mélange's weekend brunch is one of the nicest and most economical in town. My wife and I enjoyed a spread of freshly prepared breakfast dishes, meat and potato sides and coffee for about $20. A spinach frittata ($6.50) is crowned with crisp bacon and quality blue cheese. The "bagel and schmear" ($9) is an interactive breakfast platter of toasted bagel halves, sliced lox, chopped onions, capers, tomatoes and cream cheese. (Breakfast is available at lunch during the week.)

Service at both dinner and breakfast was just about faultless. Tables were pushed together to make more room without asking; wine glasses were replaced with each new bottle, coffee mugs with each fresh pot.

It's difficult to make noise in chain-dominated Beachwood, but Mélange is doing precisely that.

dining@freetimes.com

Mélange

2101 Richmond Rd., Beachwood, 216.378.9755, dinemelange.com

Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. seven days; Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 5-9 p.m. Sunday; Breakfast: 7-11 a.m. Saturday-Sunday.

Seared Scallops With sweet potato puree, cranberry ragout and spaghetti squash.